Azerbai-journal #1

So I am going to try and start an entry called Azerbai-journal (because I'm corny) that will just be a post about a random adventure I've had. It is too complicated to speak about each day and every challenge that comes my way, so these types of posts are an effort to better familiarize you all with my everyday life. And - as if this was unexpected - to make you laugh. So here you go:

I like to talk loudly, and I like to smile. These are two personality traits that consistently gave me away in France as a foreigner (a nefarious anglo-saxon!). I'd say these traits continue to give me away as a foreigner here in AZ, but I think there are a few other (primarily physical!) traits that are more noticeable that take care of that. Anyways, a few days ago I was in a little market and decided I wanted to chat with the shopkeeper. After we moved beyond the normal pleasantries, we started talking about Azeri food and which were my favorites. We quickly got on to the topic of khash, or cow head. Yes that's right… cow head! I told him I never had it, but would like to try it (being a fan of the TV show Survivor has made me incredibly eager to try "different" foods). Before I knew it, I was formally invited to his house for some cow head cuisine.

Now, let's be honest with ourselves, would this ever happen in the States? Not the cow head degustation (though I'm pretty sure I've had worse in my university's cafeteria), I am referring to the random invitation. I think first of all, if someone came up to me in 7-11 and wanted to "chit chat" and invite me to his house, I'd think twice about this gentleman's motives. I'd then spot the nearest exits and make my way to the cashier. Yet this was a completely different situation and this why I love Azerbaijan! Hospitality is so important and people genuinely enjoy having guests. I think we Americans have a lot to learn from this fundamental aspect of Azeri culture.

So, long story short, I went over to this guy's place and had a great time. Jon, another trainee, also came along for the ride. We hung out and watched TV, drank tea, and had a good lunch. Alas, no cow head this time (apparently khash is a morning only meal… bummer!). It just turned out to be an incredibly positive experience and surprisingly easy. If this is any indication of the next two years, I can't wait!

A day in the life of Jeremy Jeromovich

Well, I haven't had much time to update this wonderful blog, so I'll do my best to summarize as short and sweet as possible. Until December 10th, I am a Peace Corps Trainee. As such, I have a very rigorous training schedule every day in order to adequately prepare for the next two years. Every day pretty much follows a typical pattern:

• 8:00 Wake up
• 8:45 Walk a mile to school for language lessons
• 9:00-1:00 Azeri language lessons
• 1:15 Lunch
• 2:00-6:00 English teaching practicums/sessions/etc.
• 8:00 Dinner with the family

When you're in a different country, constantly being forced to speak in an unfamiliar language, a day such as this can seem twice as long! Thus, I find myself going to bed some evenings around 10:00… something unheard of during my college days! Soon enough I will miss this rigidity, once I arrive in site and discover I have no formal schedule at all. Oh well… until then I will continue to do all that's asked of me and practice my language.

Some thoughts on my family

I have a habit of getting extremely attached to my host families (ouais mes chers, si vous lisez comme vous m'aviez bien promis, vous saurez bien que je parle de vous!). This family here outside of Baku is no exception. I am utterly convinced that Peace Corps placed me with the best host family in Azerbaijan, and I will be extremely upset to leave them come December 10th. Besides the good cooking, great room, and excellent hospitality, I actually feel like a part of the family. Here are a few fun, quirky examples of my role in this family:

• I am allowed (and encouraged!) to answer the phone. Even though I get completely flabbergasted if the caller is not a family member, I take this right to heart and answer the phone as often as I can.
• I am in charge of closing the chickens' gate and door. I lock the old blue door every night with the same, awed reverence that Ralphie from A Christmas Story has when he fills his Red Ryder BB gun.I hug everyone, which apparently is kind of uncommon for Azeris! No matter though, because they eat it up!
• My aunts often watch me while I eat, stroke my hair, and smile at me from across the room.
• My uncle gives me INTENSE back massages that involve snapping his fingers… with my back skin between them! It feels good though, I won't lie.
• The host cousins and I draw with markers as often as we can. Even though we have no "toys" per se, we have a great time fooling around with paper airplanes and whirligigs. They are so cute I can't stand it!
• I wash the dishes when my mother isn't looking. Women have enough to do around here that I try to help when I can, even if it's not really "man's work." I know she appreciates it even if she doesn't admit it. Sometimes if we have guests, she'll ask me to wash dishes or clear the table, and the guests watch with amazement when I do it. She will sit and smile approvingly… which I suppose makes me something of a domestic attraction. "Look what my American son does!" I feel bad for the Azeris that have to keep up with these Jones'.
• When I left for Baku last weekend, my mom called to make sure I was okay. How cute is that?
• My host brother carries me around on his shoulders for entertainment. He's very big.

I leave their house soon, but I plan on keeping contact with them as best as I can. I will definitely visit them in the future (inshallah… or God willing!). Here's to hoping that my next host family will be just as awesome!

My family

Everyone together! I blend right in...

Host mom and cousin

Host brother and cousin

Hiking in the Caucasus Mountains

The hills are alive.... oops, wrong mountains!

A flower at the top of a mountain

Top of a mountain trail

Ooooooooooobama!!!

Just wanted to say YAAAAAAAAAAY Obama! I'm thrilled!!!

To any readers of the blog that hate Obama... well, sucks to be you. And if any of these aforementioned readers happen to be my family members, I still love you. :)

In other news, has it really been a month since I posted? Yikes! This is because I can't find my flash drive (Krysta TOLD me to buy a clip for it... damn!), so sorry. Soon you will hear from me, I swear.

Random adventures: A Sonad

Well, once again I find myself in an internet cafe with little time to do much of anything. Plus I have to be very general so as to not write anything too risque. So, I'll just shoot out some good info for you to know!

I am living with a host family in a small village on the outskirts of Baku. I have a host mother, Tarlala (which means poppy flower) and a host brother Torul (I don't know what that means, but it is hard to pronounce in Azeri!). They are extremely warm and accomadating. In fact, the entire family gathers over their house quite often, so I am constantly meeting new aunts, uncles, Aunt and uncle are represented by"mother's brother," etc. Cousin is represented by "mother's brother's son," etc. As you might gather, this can get very confusing, but I certainly have a good grasp as to who's who in my family!

Everyday I walk about a mile to the school, where I have language lessons for five hours. At night, we normally have PC related activities or hang out with the families. Time goes by so slowly because the days feel so long, as they are packed with a million experiences each.

Since I can't possibly sum up all the experiences I have had in a two-week cap post, I will soon make a list of eventualities that have come my way. It is sure to be a very very random list. Tomorrow I leave for a small village in the north of the country to visit an existing volunteer. Should prove to be yet another CRAZY experience!